The Buzz Rickson’s M-43 Type III Service Shoes are a meticulous reproduction of one of the most iconic pieces of U.S. Army WWII footwear, originally adopted in 1943 under Quartermaster specifications. Designed specifically for field use, this model marked a significant evolution from earlier service shoes, prioritizing durability, comfort, and practicality in combat conditions.

Crafted from roughout cowhide leather (reverse upper), the flesh side of the hide is worn outward while the smooth side sits against the foot. This construction not only improves comfort and ease of wear but also eliminates the need for polishing, making it ideal for harsh environments. The leather is wax-treated for enhanced water resistance and durability, developing a rich patina over time while maintaining its rugged character.

Built using a Goodyear welt construction, the upper is securely stitched to a high-quality welt and sole, allowing the shoes to be resoled repeatedly over time. This traditional method—considered one of the finest in footwear manufacturing—ensures long-term durability, comfort, and structural integrity, embodying the original military philosophy: build it to last, and build it to be repaired.

Further reinforcing its robustness, the shoe features Single, Triple, and Quadruple Stitch Sewing across key stress areas, replicating original military specifications. Early Type III details such as reinforced riveted quarters, heavy-duty stitching, and hand-finished construction techniques highlight the level of craftsmanship involved. Inside, a steel shankprovides excellent arch support and helps maintain the shoe’s shape over years of wear.

The sole unit is equally faithful to the original, featuring a full-length rubber sole and heel inspired by WWII “Lite Tread” patterns, offering durability, grip, and improved resistance compared to earlier half-sole designs. Combined with the storm welt and nailed reinforcements at stress points, the result is a shoe built to withstand demanding conditions.

Originally worn across multiple theaters during WWII—from European battlefields to Pacific air bases—this model later gained cult status thanks to its appearance on Steve McQueen in The Great Escape, cementing its place as one of the most recognizable military footwear designs ever produced.

Faithfully recreated in Japan, this Buzz Rickson’s version goes far beyond simple reproduction. It is a stitch-for-stitch interpretation built to the same standards as the original, using premium materials and traditional construction methods rarely seen today. The result is a timeless, rugged, and highly functional shoe that transitions effortlessly from heritage workwear to everyday wear.

Fit Notes: The M-43 boots offer an E width, making the last especially comfortable for medium to wide feet or for those who prefer a bit more room and all-day comfort without pressure points. They run slightly large, so we recommend sizing down one full size from your standard US sneaker size or Brannock measurement. If you have wider feet or prefer extra room for thick socks, consider sizing down only half a size.

In terms of fit, they are comparable to Red Wing boots (e.g., M-43 size 9 ≈ Red Wing size 9). If you have experience with John Lofgren or Viberg, the sizing is very similar to most John Lofgren models and Viberg boots built on the 2030 or 2040 lasts