ONI Denim 275 20oz Awa Sumi x Awa Shoai Regular Straight Jeans
This exceptional release marks the first time Oishi-san applies hand-dyed natural sumi (charcoal ink) to denim yarns. Sumi—a traditional Japanese ink made from soot and natural binders and used for centuries in calligraphy and ink painting—creates a deep, shadowed black tone when applied by hand. In this fabric, the warp yarns are hand-dyed with sumi, producing a rich, atmospheric darkness full of subtle depth and irregular character.
The weft yarns are hand-dyed using Awa shoai indigo, a traditional fermentation-based dyeing method native to Tokushima. Shoai indigo develops slowly across numerous dips, resulting in a living blue tone that softens, fades, and evolves uniquely over time. The union of sumi warp + natural indigo weft creates a quiet duality: dark and smoky at first glance, yet with a hidden blue glow beneath the surface. With wear, this fabric reveals an ultra-slubby, textured grain impossible to replicate through modern industrial dyeing.
The denim is woven on an antique shuttle loom at low tension. The result is intentional inconsistency, organic rhythm, and visible human touch.
Originally planned for 100 pairs worldwide across both the Sumi and Kakishibu colorways, only 80 pairs in total were successfully completed due to the difficulty of working with natural dyes and Oishi-san’s strict quality standards. This piece embodies tradition, experimentation, and patience—a level of craftsmanship that may never be repeated.
Cut in the ONI 275 fit, this pair offers a classic straight silhouette with a bit more comfort and room compared to the 288—balanced, timeless, and versatile enough for everyday wear, whether with boots or sneakers.
This piece stands as a testament to Oishi-san’s vision: tradition respected, technique reinvented, and creativity pursued without compromise. A release of this nature is not just rare—it may never happen again.
Fit Notes: These jeans have a standard sizing. We recommend choosing your usual size. However, as always, we recommend checking the size chart first to find your perfect size. The fabric is unsanforized, but the jeans have been one-washed, so no further shrinkage is expected. The waist will experience the typical stretching seen in ONI denim due to the low tension weave, although not as much as the secret denim. Expect approximately 1 inches of stretching.
Product Information
Product Information
Shipping & Returns
Shipping & Returns
Description
This exceptional release marks the first time Oishi-san applies hand-dyed natural sumi (charcoal ink) to denim yarns. Sumi—a traditional Japanese ink made from soot and natural binders and used for centuries in calligraphy and ink painting—creates a deep, shadowed black tone when applied by hand. In this fabric, the warp yarns are hand-dyed with sumi, producing a rich, atmospheric darkness full of subtle depth and irregular character.
The weft yarns are hand-dyed using Awa shoai indigo, a traditional fermentation-based dyeing method native to Tokushima. Shoai indigo develops slowly across numerous dips, resulting in a living blue tone that softens, fades, and evolves uniquely over time. The union of sumi warp + natural indigo weft creates a quiet duality: dark and smoky at first glance, yet with a hidden blue glow beneath the surface. With wear, this fabric reveals an ultra-slubby, textured grain impossible to replicate through modern industrial dyeing.
The denim is woven on an antique shuttle loom at low tension. The result is intentional inconsistency, organic rhythm, and visible human touch.
Originally planned for 100 pairs worldwide across both the Sumi and Kakishibu colorways, only 80 pairs in total were successfully completed due to the difficulty of working with natural dyes and Oishi-san’s strict quality standards. This piece embodies tradition, experimentation, and patience—a level of craftsmanship that may never be repeated.
Cut in the ONI 275 fit, this pair offers a classic straight silhouette with a bit more comfort and room compared to the 288—balanced, timeless, and versatile enough for everyday wear, whether with boots or sneakers.
This piece stands as a testament to Oishi-san’s vision: tradition respected, technique reinvented, and creativity pursued without compromise. A release of this nature is not just rare—it may never happen again.
Fit Notes: These jeans have a standard sizing. We recommend choosing your usual size. However, as always, we recommend checking the size chart first to find your perfect size. The fabric is unsanforized, but the jeans have been one-washed, so no further shrinkage is expected. The waist will experience the typical stretching seen in ONI denim due to the low tension weave, although not as much as the secret denim. Expect approximately 1 inches of stretching.
